You have to remove the rear wheel, and the front sprocket, but not bad. get the wholle drivetrain real good and hot before you do the front. it's loctited pretty good.
same goes for the rear wheel bolts. a good 1 or two hour ride, then bring it in, do the drivetrain, fire it up on the sidestand, and get the oil hot again, change the oil/filter, maybe bleed and fill your brakes and clutch lines til they're perfectly clear again since you've the covers off anyway...
trust me, once you get into the swing, it'll be a blast, and it'll be tip top, by your hand. it feels good having done it.

I've never done a chain, so I can't comment, but I may get into that stuff pretty soon so. we'll see.