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need to do first oil change and i need advice. i live in Pennsylvania where it gets 90+ in the summer and below freezing at times in the winter. id like to get a good year round oil, something that can take both the heat and the cold well without having to change it between seasons unless its due. thanks in advance.

Mobil1 Racing 4T synthetic 10w40. Can't go wrong.

thanks

Buy special oil for the motorbike.
Oil for cars won't work, even if it is 10W40
Advice : always change the filter too....

I changed my oil over the past weekend, using Mobil 1 4T synthetic racing oil 10W 40. And I put on a new K&N oil filter. Was rather easy and good to get to know my bike. The shifting is noticeably better, not by much, but better. I have changed the oil in my cars many times, and the dino oil that I drained out my bike was more slippery in my hands than car oil. I suppose the synthetic oil is even more slippery. I did not need to use a special wrench to loosen the oil filter. I just used my hand. It was tightly on, but no different from removing a tight lid on a peanut butter jar. I hand tightened the new filter. The oil drain bolt/plug was really easy to loosen. One little nudge with a wrench and it was loose enough to turn with my fingers (it was hot, so I just used an old throw away glove). When I put it back on, I hand tightened it and then just a little, eeney, weeney nudge with the wrench. No leaks. Then I cleaned and lubricated the chain. This time I used my bare hands for the whole process of the oil change and chaing lube, because I wanted to feel the oil and such. Next time, I will use my bare hands, 'cause I want to feel what the synthetic oil is like.

Olequa, you seem to have a fetish with oil.

Ummmmmmmmmm ... the long-lasting stuff?

I have always hand tightened filters on my cars but the manual says to tighten two full turns after the filter/gasket makes contact. I changed my oil on Monday and there is no way I could have done those rotations with my bare hands. There is a big difference between hand vs two rotations (+ "a little, eeney, weeney nudge with the wrench). I hope the manual is just overkill!

Oil filter, two rotations after the seal touches? It was not two rotations to remove the oil filter, so I put it back on and hand tightened it good enough, but not overly tight. It's not leaking yet.

The drain pan bolt for sure does not need a lot of excess tightening. Since it only takes a nudge to get it loose to take it off, then it only needs a nudge with the wrench to tighten it. I could be wrong. It's not leaking, and it has not spontaneously loosened and fallen out onto the road.

The oil felt soooooo good. Then, it occurred to me, hey next time, wipe the oil off my hands onto a rag, then use the oily rag to clean the chain. Might be better than WD40 on the chain. Or, just use my oily hands directly on the chain to clean it and wipe the chain off with a rag. Just thinking out loud. Probably won't do it that way, but maybe.

I did remove the right side fairing. And I recall that somebody said how to put it back on. But I did not remember exactly what was posted earlier, so I discovered thru trial and error, put the big screw in first on the side then the other smaller ones, otherwise, for me, if the big screw is left to be put in last, it won't line up properly.

I just did an oil change on mine this weekend. I used a Suzuki filter and Honda HP4S oil. It comes in 10W30 and it is fully synthetic. Several Suzuki dealers in my area are recommending it. It gets good reviews and Honda is now recommending it for all of their bikes, etc. I noticed that my shifts are smooth and quiet.

Removing the fairing what much easier than I thought it would be. I used the Suzuki filter wrench to get my filter off. It was really on there and took some muscle! They certainly don't give you much room in there to work! I could not get the little washer off the drain plug. Any tips for that? Other than not getting that washer off, everything was fairly straight forward and easy.