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Post subject: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:24 am
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Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2009 12:56 am Posts: 132 Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
When I’m measuring the slack, do I just push up on the bottom of the chain & measure from where it was resting? Or do I push down & then up and add it together? Do I stop & take measurement when resistance is felt, or do I put a lot of force into it? I understand it’s better to have it a little lose rather than to tight.
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 2:34 am
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Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:53 am Posts: 1005 Location: Melbourne, AUS
in all honesty I usually just give it a lift up with my boot and say "yep that moved about an inch or so", and if it seems a bit too slack i'll tighten it up just a bit. Never had any problems in taking a slightly care free approach with it. You are correct about not having it too tight though.
Basically, you want to turn the wheel till the chain is at it's tightest. Then decide if you want to measure the top or bottom of the chain link. If you pick the top, then both measurements are taken from the top.
To measure slack, find the middle of the chain run (or the area that's equal distance from both sprockets) then pull down with reasonable force and measure where it comes to with a ruler. Then keeping the ruler stationary, pull up on the chain with reasonable force and measure where it comes to. The distance between the two marks is your slack. Hope that helps.
Basically, you want to turn the wheel till the chain is at it's tightest. Then decide if you want to measure the top or bottom of the chain link. If you pick the top, then both measurements are taken from the top.
To measure slack, find the middle of the chain run (or the area that's equal distance from both sprockets) then pull down with reasonable force and measure where it comes to with a ruler. Then keeping the ruler stationary, pull up on the chain with reasonable force and measure where it comes to. The distance between the two marks is your slack. Hope that helps.
David
Thanks...that site has just the info I was looking for
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:38 am
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 9:39 pm Posts: 17 Location: Newport News, VA USA
Just did my 600 mi service, the chain did not need adjusting! Thought it was odd. Cleaned and lubed it, along with the oil and filter change. Good stuff!
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:05 am
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:19 am Posts: 246 Location: Grayson, Ga.
panterafreak wrote:
When I’m measuring the slack, do I just push up on the bottom of the chain & measure from where it was resting? Or do I push down & then up and add it together? Do I stop & take measurement when resistance is felt, or do I put a lot of force into it? I understand it’s better to have it a little lose rather than to tight.
I came from a shaft drive, that’s my excuse!
I was born confused
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When life throws me Lemons, I don't make Lemonade. I throw them back!!
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Sun Mar 28, 2010 5:06 am
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:19 am Posts: 246 Location: Grayson, Ga.
BikerBoy wrote:
in all honesty I usually just give it a lift up with my boot and say "yep that moved about an inch or so", and if it seems a bit too slack i'll tighten it up just a bit. Never had any problems in taking a slightly care free approach with it. You are correct about not having it too tight though.
I do the exact same thing
_________________ Proud Member of ***650's Anonymous***
When life throws me Lemons, I don't make Lemonade. I throw them back!!
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:54 am
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Joined: Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:53 am Posts: 52 Location: Sydney Australia
I honestly don't see why chains and sprockets on a bike have to be exposed to the environment and all the shit that that it contains. Why can't they be inside a cover? Is it because a cover would be ugly? Of course it is! Ag bikes have them. I"m sure a manufacturer could come up with one for sport bikes that looked good. In fact if they did they'd probably do very well out of it. The only reason people buy driveshaft bikes is the low maintenance. An oil bath cover for a chain would work just as well, even if it cost $500 it would easily be cheaper than paying for a bike wiith a driveshaft. You pay $400 for a hugger to stop crap getting on your rear suspension so why not something fo the chain. 80,000km out of a chain /sprocket set instead of 25,000, with little or no maintenance. Chains and sprockets only look pretty when they are clean anyway.
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:23 pm
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:49 am Posts: 71 Location: Detroit, MI
panterafreak - Yesterday, I washed my bike, cleaned and lubed the chain, and tried to answer the same questions you had! As someone who is not mechanically inclined, I think I will just let the dealer adjust it when I bring it in for the 4000 mile oil change.
Post subject: Re: Chain adjustment Q (it doesn’t take much to confuse me)
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:43 pm
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Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:45 pm Posts: 952 Location: The Netherlands
@Phill North:
Or you got a automatic lubrication system like the Pro-Oiler or Scottoiler and never have to look at your chain again besides filling up the oil bottle. Costs less then a oil bath and certainly is easier to install on weigh less. Got a Pro Oiler myself and will install it next week.
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