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So I have now ridden the last 4 days to and from work with my stock bars turned downwards by like .75 inch and what a difference. Bottom line is that more of my upper body weight has moved forward onto my arms so I get more feedback from the road then ever before on this bike. It's quite exciting I must say. Feels like whole new bike. I can imagine what difference 4 inches like sleddog would make... I think 8 inches i.e below the triple tree would be absolute nutts. Now I think I want those footpegs risers to go with my new aggressive position.
_________________ If you have nowhere to ride to, try the Afterlife
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:54 am Posts: 17 Location: Beaumont, Texas
Sleddog wrote:
Mikie ,My bars are an aftermarket bar for a ninja 650...I modified them to fit my bike. I'm talking to the manufacture about getting them made for our bike ...its just a straight fit and a 30 minute job anyone can do.
If you modified them to fit your bike then how are they a straight fit? I'm looking around on here, learning and finding things to do to my bike and yours looks by far the best with those bars. What brand are they and would you be willing to do a walk through on the install if it is a straight fit 30 minute job?
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:47 am Posts: 2721 Location: Sydney OZ.
Straight fit means ...you don't have to get longer or shorter brake lines ,bleed the brakes or cut part of the fairing off ,as you do for some handle bar swaps.
If you read my post I was talking to the manufacture about getting them to fit our bike with out any modifications. But you can buy the ninja bars and do the modification your self. The 4 bolts that hold the handle bars on, with our bike are 8cm apart top and bottom. BUT then ninja bar bolt hole are 9cm across the top two bolts and 8cm across the bottom two. You have to get a metal shop ,to fill the top two holes and re-drill the holes 8cm wide. They done mine for $80....they drill the holes out ,heated the bars up ,which open the holes alittle and droped a plug in ,then it cools and the shrinks and hole and the plug on place and then you re-drill a new hole.
And then just swap the bars over ,its easy as changing the handle bars and brakes on a push bike and I'm sure you would of done that as some point as a kid.
But I then always take the bike to my mechanic and he double checks every thing ,takes him 2 minutes and give me peace of mind ,that I've got the right amount of play in the throttle and the lines arn't pinching....realy is very simple.
Here is a picture of the holes I'm talking about. Here they are painted ,just before I put them on.
Now look at this video ,you can see at 3.11 in the video ,just a faint out line of the old holes on the top two bolts ,where they have been pluged and moved in to 8cm. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T4epR4s7YU
_________________ IXIL Hyper low dual exit pipe ..Titax racing levers ..custom fitted Sports handle bar kit +bar ends ..Bandit 1250 sear+cowl ..Custom red GSX plate..Custom decals ..Cut down fender.. ..Michelin Pilot road 2 tyres..Narva globes..Givi Touring topcase. CARBON BITS >> mini indicators ..side covers, tank pad ,leg pads ,key saver, fuel cover.. stand bobbins...
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:54 am Posts: 17 Location: Beaumont, Texas
Thanks Sledd. I'm very new to bikes so this is all new to me. Yes I did read your post but I was still confused and just looking for clarification that's all. If I come off as rude I apologize and not trying to be, I'm just way out of my comfort zone.
Thanks Sledd. I'm very new to bikes so this is all new to me. Yes I did read your post but I was still confused and just looking for clarification that's all. If I come off as rude I apologize and not trying to be, I'm just way out of my comfort zone.
Hey LunacyFringe67, I wouldn't worry too much, Sled by reminding everybody is right on when he does it.
But first welcome and hope you'll have as much fun with your SuziF, than I have. Yet let me assure you, those Sledd made handle bars are super bad ass, I soo love them, but now since I bought me a Gixxer750 as a 2nd bike, I can tell, what makes me love my SuziF even more (this is her name GSX650F is just wrong LOL).
Now you need to decide on a few factors: Comfort vs. more aggressive position with the bias, that you loose comfort. (Better control, is quite subjective, so I wouldn't want to count that in, you need to feel it in order to make the call which works best for you) Upper body more up straight or leaned forward?
If you are new to bikes, than I'd advise you to ride your SuziF for a while, maybe a buddy which has a true crotch rocket borrows his, so you can feel the difference. From what I can tell is the following: I ride my SuziF straight 150 miles and jump of nothing to report I ride my Gixxer750 50 miles and wished my Chiropractor gives me lower back massage Plain and simple.....
But and again, it all depends on what you want from this bike. My SuziF will be the bike which will see the great US of A, my Gixxer? Around town and on the race track for track days and further education at best.
My $2 cents
_________________ 2008 GSX650F (SuziF), Yoshi TRC, T-Rex swing arm and frame sliders, Pazzo levers, dark Puig screen, White powder coated Rims, Powerbronze seat cowl/painted side covers, Tourmaster saddle-/tail/tank bag(s) 2011 GSX R750 (SuziR), Black, Yoshi Fender Eliminator, Bitch Seat eliminator, Silver powder coated Rims, Racing rearsets, Pazzo levers, soon to come Yoshi R-77D "Carbon"
Hi guys... So turning my stock handle bar towards me and achieving something like .75 inch lower is no longer enough. I bought a pair of used SV650 07 stock clipons and will be intstalling them this saturday... Probably above the triple tree. I also got those bandit peg risers from banditmania which raise the footpeg up and backward by 2.5 cm
Looking forward to a fun saturday morning
_________________ If you have nowhere to ride to, try the Afterlife
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:36 pm Posts: 94 Location: Sydney, Australia
Sure. This has been mentioned before, but I'll sum it up for ya. I'll even go back downstairs and take a picture of my (dirty) bike, which should illustrate it very clearly.
From factory, this bike comes with forks flush with the top clamp, as I'm sure you know since you got one. To install the clip-ons above the top tree, you need to push the forks UP through the clamps ("triple trees") so you have forks sticking up above the top clamp.
This brings the bike DOWN in the front, which changes the steering geometry and should ideally be matched by lowering the back suspension the same amount. All this then returns the geometry back to factory settings (or at least somwhere close to it), but lowers the whole bike and reduces ground clearance. Also costs money. You don't HAVE to do it, but most experts will gasp at it. Bike will feel and behave differently when suspension is changed in any way, which you may or may not notice. I wouldn't cause it's my first bike ever and I only ride it to work etc. so there are no high speed corners and whatnot.
Other, probably more serious, problem with lowering the front (regardless of what you do to the back) is that fork travel is reduced by the length of fork tube that is now sticking up above the top clamp. Reducing fork travel can result in the lower (outer) fork tubes contacting the bottom triple clamp on heavy braking... You know, when you stop and the front sags? In bad cases, the "contact" will be actually heard and felt, and there is a potential to break shit. Which will again cost you money, and there may be hospital involved.
In the picture, aluminium part on top is the bottom triple clamp. The black part on the bottom is the dust seal protector or something, it's attached to the lower (outer) fork tube and moves up and down with it. The shiny tube is the upper (inner) fork tube on which it slides... It's polished and shiny because the dust seal keeps it that way when you ride and suspension does it's job. The dusty part of the tube is the "spare" travel. From the factory, it's about 25mm. So if you push the forks up 25mm to install the clip-ons above the top clamp, you will completely remove that spare travel and there is a real possibility that the lower fork tube will come in contact with the lower triple clamp on heavy or even not so heavy braking. Hitting a pothole might even break the lower clamp and next thing you know is - front wheel is jammed in the radiator and you're flying headfirst at whatever speed you were riding a moment before, with a 250kg of steel flying closely behind you... not good.
Read this whole thread, and give a few days to other members to reply to this. I am not saying this can not be done, only - be careful. Other members may have a different view.
Attachments:
Front fork closeup.jpg [ 118.33 KiB | Viewed 52 times ]
Mikie, I love your grips. Any chance you remember where you got them?
_________________ 09 Blue&White GSX650F Vortex Clip Ons Competition Werkes Fender Elimanator Kit, Two Brothers Exhaust, LED Glow 7 color LED kit, Flush Mounted turn signals, Sport Mirrors with intergraded turn signals.
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 1:36 pm Posts: 94 Location: Sydney, Australia
I absolutely remember Grips, ends and clip-ons are all off eBay. There are hundreds of them, just search and ye shall find. That's all you needed, Adam?
I guess I should of worded it differently, I like the looks of them and would like to get a set. Possibly would like to know brand name or buyer where you purchased them and maybe if you liked them or not. I think they look real nice on your bike
_________________ 09 Blue&White GSX650F Vortex Clip Ons Competition Werkes Fender Elimanator Kit, Two Brothers Exhaust, LED Glow 7 color LED kit, Flush Mounted turn signals, Sport Mirrors with intergraded turn signals.
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