Suzuki GSX650F Forum - www.GSX650F.biz

hey guys i hate to sound like a stupid little kid (which i basically am at this point) but i want to change my clutch fluid and i have no clue how.... anyone out there wanna tell me how to do this? i know i need dot4 brake fluid but thats about it. lol

i was under the impression that the clutch was lubricated with the engine oil?

The plates are, the hydraulic cylinder that actuates it is not.

If noone else chimes in I'll post up a step by step of how to do it on a bandit sometime later tonight as I'm busy right now
Should be the same as the GSXF I think

The best method I find (and the one I use) is to use a tool such as this. You will need an air compressor to use one tho.

1. Get yourself plenty of rags and place them on the fairing under the clutch lever and reservoir as clutch fluid (or brake fluid) destroys paint and plastic
2. Get a container of water. This is to pour over any brake fluid that might find it way onto paint and such by accident. Flush the are quickly and with heaps of water to avoid any damage. if caught quickly there should be little to no damage done.
Now onto the job
3. Remove the clutch reservoir cover (2 philips screws) and place it on a clean rag somewhere you wont stand on it.
4. Remove the engine outer sprocket cover (The outer one. 3 x socket head screws, 4mm I think) and place it somewhere you wont stand on it
5. Locate the clutch slave cylinder and it's bleeder nipple/screw (8mm I think)
6. Using the above tool (remember you'll also need a air compressor to make it work) remove all the clutch fluid form the clutch reservoir
7. Fill the clutch reservoir with new fluid (DOT 4, but read your manual to be sure)
8. Attach the bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleeder and open (loosen) the bleeder screw by 2-3 turns
9. Using the bleeding tool, draw the new fluid thru until new fluid is seen in the bleeding tool line (remember to keep the fluid in the clutch reservoir topped up)
10. Close (tighten) the bleeder nipple while the bleeding tool is still going (Be careful not to over tighten it)
11. Stop the bleeding tool
12. Top up the clutch reservoir to the correct level
13. Replace all those parts you removed in step 3 and 4
14. Clean up the work area and Dispose of old fluid thoughtfully.


Disclaimer:
While all care was taken to write this "how to", no responsibility will be taken if you fuck it up and your bike doesn't work when you finish.

As an option to the above if you do not ahve an air compressor you could use one of these or perhaps something like this

Procedure is similar

1. Get yourself plenty of rags and place them on the fairing under the clutch lever and reservoir as clutch fluid (or brake fluid) destroys paint and plastic
2. Get a container of water. This is to pour over any brake fluid that might find it way onto paint and such by accident. Flush the are quickly and with heaps of water to avoid any damage. if caught quickly there should be little to no damage done.
Now onto the job
3. Remove the clutch reservoir cover (2 philips screws) and place it on a clean rag somewhere you wont stand on it.
4. Remove the engine outer sprocket cover (The outer one. 3 x socket head screws, 4mm I think) and place it somewhere you wont stand on it
5. Locate the clutch slave cylinder and it's bleeder nipple/screw (8mm I think)
5a. If you are using the speedbleeder remove the standard bleeder and replace it with the speedbleeder. Place a hose from the bleeder to a bottle of some sort to catch what is about to come out
5b. If you are using the bleed-o-matic (or similar) attach it as per the instructions
6. Using a syringe (about $2 from your local chemist, get the biggest you can) remove as much of the fluid from the reservoir as you can
7. Refill the reservoir with new fluid (DOT 4)
8. If you haven't already done so, loosen the bleeder (which ever method you are using) by 1/2 to 1 turn
9. Using full strokes of the lever at a medium pace, pump the clutch lever until new fluid is seen entering the catch bottle
9a. Keep an eye on the clutch reservoir as it will need topping up from time to time.
10. Once new fluid is seen in the catch bottle, close (tighten) the bleeder screw and remove the hose/bottle
11. Top up the clutch reservior to the upper level
12. Refit all parts removed at step 3 and 4
13. Clean up the work area and dispose of old fluid thoughtfully


Disclaimer:
While all care was taken to write this "how to", no responsibility will be taken if you fuck it up and your bike doesn't work when you finish.

I'll write up a guide for changing/bleeding the clutch if you don't have any of the above special tools tomorrow or over the weekend as it is a bit different and more involved.
It is (or should be) in the service manual tho.

ok good because i dont have those things. ill probably just use an empty water bottle and a little bit of clear aquarium hosing.

Here is some photos of my clutch fluid change. I could not stand any longer to look at that dirty site glass. I'm glad I changed it now, look at that crap. I used Bel-Ray Dot 4 Brake fluid from a sealed container. I was going to use OEM Suzuki Brake 3/4 fluid, but my order from babbittsonline.com is never going to come. Now that you see some pictures I bet you all change yours now.

Here is dirty....



Here is drain...



Here is clean...

Great pics BundyGuy. The state of the fluid before your change shows why it should be done. Curious to know how many kms (or miles) on your bike when you did it.

Anyway onto how to change/bleed clutch without the cool tools I mentioned.


1. Get yourself plenty of rags and place them on the fairing under the clutch lever and reservoir as clutch fluid (or brake fluid) destroys paint and plastic
2. Get a container of water. This is to pour over any brake fluid that might find it way onto paint and such by accident. Flush the area quickly and with heaps of water to avoid any damage. if caught quickly there should be little to no damage done.
Now onto the job
3. Remove the clutch reservoir cover (2 philips screws) and place it on a clean rag somewhere you wont stand on it.
4. Remove the engine outer sprocket cover (The outer one. 3 x socket head screws, 4mm I think) and place it somewhere you wont stand on it
5. Locate the clutch slave cylinder and it's bleeder nipple/screw (8mm I think)
6. Attach a length of hose to the bleeder nipple/screw with the other end of the hose sitting into a catch can of some sort (bottle, tin, something to catch what is about to come out)
7. Using a syringe (about $2 from your local chemist, get the biggest you can) remove as much of the fluid from the reservoir as you can
8. Refill the reservoir with new fluid (DOT 4)
9. Place the clutch reservoir cover on (don't put the screws in as you'll need to take it off again soon. It's only being put on to stop brake fluid going all over the place. If your curious, leave it off and see what happens but be ready to clean up the mess and DO NOT put you head over the top of the reservoir)
10. With full and quick strokes operate the clutch lever about 5-6 times or until you can feel normal resistance to your fingers movement and hold it in closest to the bar/grip (This will be referred to as "pump up the clutch" from now on)
11. With the other hand crack (undo) the bleeder nipple/screw (you did leave the spanner on the bleeder didn't you. See BundyGuys second pic). It will only need about 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
12. DO NOT RELEASE THE CLUTCH LEVER YET
13. Tighten the bleeder nipple/screw
14. Pump up the clutch (see point 10)
15. Repeat steps 11 - 14 until new fluid is seen in the hose attached to the bleeder nipple/screw.
15a. If you can see air bubble in the hose (it is best to use a clear hose) you need to keep going till you see no more air bubbles
16. Don't forget to keep the clutch reservoir topped up with fluid (remember to place the cover back on)
17. Once finished and thinking you have done a good job, place your bike in gear and try to push it forwards (do not hold the clutch lever in). It shouldn't move against the engine cause it's in gear (well der)
18. Pull the clutch in and try again. If you have kept air out of the clutch hydraulic system, it should move as it's working properly (step 17 and 18 are a check to be sure you've done good)
19. Top up the clutch reservoir to the upper level
20. Refit all parts removed at step 3 and 4
21. Clean up the work area and dispose of old fluid thoughtfully


Disclaimer:
Same as the other 2

awesome! thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!! i did it and its clean now!!!!! and did you wipe your sight glass clean? i forgot and i think ill go back and clean the system one more time.

Wow. I am bookmarking this thread out of awesome. Very nicely done sirs, and the pics and detail comprise helpful information indeed.

Please advise at what odometer it should be done. Does the service manual recommend this at any particular interval? (Mine is in the garage and I don't have it at hand.)

most manuals will say change your brake and clutch fluid every 2 years regardless of kms/miles traveled.

This is very good guide but IMO and depending on where you live it should be any where between 6 and 12 months.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (probably spelt that wrong) which means it attracts water/moisture. It's not the fact that water gets into the fluid that is a bad thing, it's when the brake fluid heats up under normal use (or extreme use such a heavy braking) that the water boils and forms gas bubbles. This leads to a loss in braking performance and lever feel (some times a dramatic one) which can mean bad things for you.

On a side note, I have actually used water in a braking system in an emergency (think middle of nowhere, brake hose split and dumped all fluid). It got me home safely but I was very mindful of it's limits.


Do you live in the tropics where humidity is high or do you live in the desert where humidity is low. Perhaps you live somewhere in between those 2 extremes

IMO change your brake fluid every 12 months without fail and all will be well.

If you live in the tropics (for example PNG) then you could seriously consider changing it every 6 months, but 12 months will still be OK

Another reason to change the fluid (either brake or clutch) is when it is contaminated. Most Suzuki's I've seen lately have needed a change due to black shit in the fluid (see pics above. Mine was even worse after 4-5 thousand kms)

Close. Hygroscopic means the fluid readily absorbs water. The water content absorption into the brake fluid typically comes from the rubber hoses and seals which are somewhat permeable and allow hydrogen atoms (lightest known to man) to seep in.

That's a good reason to run SS brake lines.

Very awesome procedure write-up!!!! I guess mileage isn't as critical as how long the bike has been exposed to high-humidity conditions. Thanks!!!

SS brake lines (I call them hoses and the solid pipe bit the line, but that's from 20 odd years in the trade) are good to reduce flex in the standard brake line that is a for sure

SS brake hoses still have rubber (or what ever) inside the SS bit. The SS bit is essentially a outer covering to reduce flex in the hose which can have quite a few effects, some are (and these depend on more than just the hose construction).

*Better feel/pressure regulation
*Longer hose life due to less flexing
*Ability to handle greater pressure
*They look nice
*Increased safety factor if something does go wrong


Even if you have SS brakes hoses fitted to your bike (car, truck what ever) you should still change your brake fluid at regular intervals which IMO should never exceed 12 months.

Some will have differing opinions on time between changes but from my experience having worked from the top to the bottom of this fine country 12 months is max.