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Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 6:38 am Posts: 698 Location: Gosford NSW Australia
Not bad RushX, as you say pics are from a mobile phone so that makes it very fuzzy. My son has put red LEDs on his black CBR1000RR and you can only notice them at night unless you look hard. Geoff didn't put them in the undertail, just inside the fairings. He is trying to get me to do the same on my bike, but I'm not a big fan.
_________________ Blue K9 Scorpion Carbon Pipe, Powerbronze Blue Iridium Screen & Lens Cover, Personalised Powerbronze Seat Cowl, Manic Salamander Bar Ends, HEL Brake Lines, Flush Mount Indicators, Oxford Mini Cats-Eye Rear Indicators, Chopped Rear Fender, Black CNC Brake & Clutch Levers
Last edited by papa r on Sun Aug 29, 2010 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:24 am Posts: 529 Location: Antioch CA
Even with cell pic, Your 650 looks very good. Leds and your decals look sharp.
_________________ GSX650F K8 BLUE/WHITE. MRA windscreen Yosh clutch and brake res covers silver, Pazo shorty clutch/brake levers .compass/ temp int, LSL clip ons. Bandit 1250 oil cooler.Sargent seat . aluminum oil filler . Suzuki Carbon fiber rear set covers. PB REAL Carbon side frame covers. Yosh R77 carbon slip on . Comp Werks under tail. PB Hugger. All lighting LED except LOW and High beam.
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:36 am Posts: 342 Location: Lehigh Valley PA, USA
papa r- I should spend a moment and take a much clearer pic with another camera. I think some of the more expensive kits have more bulbs that are brighter and perform a bit of a light show. At this point, I need to invest in a few other mods and come back to this. ie- new sliders, seat, HID, Yoshi, etc.
Sleddog- In some parts of my area we have no street lights and sometimes no sidewalks- Most of my trips are about 2+hrs each way on the highway. I really do want to see and be seen as much as possible. Hopefully without looking like a UFO. We also have quite a few drivers that prefer text messaging on their phone more than paying attention to the road.
f104s- Thanks- I re-made the decal on the computer myself. Been a huge Transformer fan since the early 80s.
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:07 am Posts: 228 Location: Copperas Cove, Tx
Decepticon, and the same type red that is on the decals of the black/silver (faster) bike which is fairly bright. Probally the same size as you have because I most likely will put it in the same place. I haven't seen an orange bike in person but I would have to believe that the red on the F would be the same for all bikes so as close to that as possible.
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Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:07 am Posts: 228 Location: Copperas Cove, Tx
@ RushX...sent e-mail but just an observation, this forum is viewable by members and guests so your e-mail will be seen by alot more people than you may have intended. Just throwing that out there.
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Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:36 am Posts: 342 Location: Lehigh Valley PA, USA
To be honest- I used a cheap kit for $89. Mistake #1. My friend and I took a little more than 2 hours (we didn't know what we were doing) It was a basic Street FX kit. I will eventually upgrade to more of what I wanted; something that has multiple settings for whichever color you prefer (blue, red, green, white, purple, yellow, etc) and has options for stobe, breathe or color changing effects. Those kits come with more LED bulbs that are brighter. They should be the type that sticks with 3M and are water resistant and will stand up to vibrations and shocks.
FYI> We didn't remove anything except the seat. My friend has smaller hands than I do. Please note: [b][/b] Clean all areas first and be certain it is completely dry. I used a very light alcohol solvent and a soft rag. I made sure the bike was completely cooled down first.
In the newly attached pic- I numbered some of the prime locations you may want to adhere the light pods and or strips to. My kit only came with 2 strips that I have attached in sections 4 & 5; one for either side on the interior rim of the fairing about 1 inch in from the outside. Test the length of where you want to add the light and how much wire it takes to run to the connection point before adhering it to any surface. You should also pick up additional fuses and test all lights before attaching them! The Connection point is under the seat; Some wire splicing will be involved to connect all the pods and strips together then wrapped with electrical tape. Some of the wire may seem to fall short so be careful with this part.
Follow the package instructions for proper connections to the battery. Since you've already tested the entire kit by doing a mock hook up to the battery, you can now place the switch some place easy to reach. We placed mine on the right side of the bike's frame and tucked it all the way inside. I wanted to be sure it wasn't exposed or would be switched on/ off accidentally. The bike doesn't have to be on for the lights to work- be careful not to leave it on while the bike is off and run off with a hottie- when you return, your battery might be drained.
I used black electrical tape to help secure the switch in it's position. The kit came with small screws but I didn't want to put holes in her. Beware of too much slack in any wires that may lean on high temperature parts!
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:36 am Posts: 342 Location: Lehigh Valley PA, USA
willms81 wrote:
@ RushX...sent e-mail but just an observation, this forum is viewable by members and guests so your e-mail will be seen by alot more people than you may have intended. Just throwing that out there.
Yeah- thanks- that email addr functions as a spam box. It's not linked to any personal info. It's quite disposable. I don't even check it from my main machine or the same IP addr.
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