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I finally got around to flipping my footpegs in order to get more leg room. I was going to write up a "how-to" but that would have actually taken longer than the job itself. For anyone who is interested in trying this for themselves it is a very simple procedure and only requires two allen keys.






I took it for a test ride afterwards and as soon as I went to put my feet on the pegs I got that feeling you get when you go to sit down but someone has moved your chair. A few minutes later and all was good.

I am very happy with the results and I would strongly encourage anyone who wants more legroom to give it a try. It costs nothing and can be easily reversed.

I find that not only do I have more leg room but with the pegs slightly more forward my legs also can just rest on the pegs with no effort, compared to the stock location that I have always had to "hold" my legs in position. It is amazing how much of a difference it makes.

Of course, it also means that the brake pedal and gear change lever are closer to the pegs. For the rear brake I found this to be no problem at all. The gear change needs you to adjust your foot action and you will probably have to also adjust the height of your gear change lever. I am able to change gear without any problems but sometime in the future I may shorten the gear change lever to return it to it's correct distance. People who ride with thick-sole boots may have more problems.

So yeah, I am pretty happy with this mod, especially the price. All up it took about 45 minutes to do both pegs and is pretty easy to do.

Nice how you changed the angle of the bracket to make it lower. How much lower would you say it made things?

Also, hp after looking at your pics I was wondering if it might be possible to swap the rear footpegs in and maybe put some rubber around the remaining space to help reduce vibration? But I am very impressed with how you did that and am interested in trying myself. My legs get a bit cramped after so many miles.

Nice one HP.

I had a look and can see the bolt end from this side of the bike .
But I'll be stuffed how you can get a alan key from the inside to undo it.

You have to remove the rear sets to do it. On the right side you will need to remove the rear brake resevoir to get the rear set off, but it's not too difficult. The bolts holding the peg mounts on are put on with lock tight so they are tough to break loose.

Yeah thought so ,not as easy as first thought .
I had a look at taking them of , when I was looking to paint the rear sets .

It really isnt much trouble to remove the rear sets or whatever they are called, it's just 3 allen bolts. I extended the length of my allen keys using a ring spanner and it made breaking the locktite a lot easier.

I think the pegs are now about 1 inch lower than they were, which is more significant than it sounds. I would recommend that you do the gear-change side first as it is a lot easier and you will know what you are doing by the time you get to the other side.

After my ride to work this morning I have decided to look into shortening the gear change lever so that it will be as far away from my foot as it was before the modification. The brake pedal can stay as-is.

I dont think using the passenger pegs would give you any advantage, as they would not be lowered as much. The stock riders-pegs are already insulated against vibration by:
1) rear sets are rubber mounted (the three allen bolts pass thru rubber grommets to the frame).
2) large weights are bolted underneath the footpegs (similar principle to bar-end weights) to help reduce vibration
3) the rubber on top of the footpegs is actually hollow, so there is some shock absorbtion where your foot actually rests on the peg.

It wasn't till I did this mod that I appreciated the amount of thought that went into these simple little things!

thanks for tips , HP you have no excuses for not scraping the pegs now

I'd be interested to hear you thoughts after a long haul.

Cheers HP ,just wasn't sure about the brake side ,not wanting to fiddle with them .
Just undo the bolts and they come out as one piece ,and just take the peg off ?

You are right hp, probably more trouble than worth swapping rear pegs forward. Plus stock front pegs are probably bit heavier than rear . One inch lower would be great for my legs. Thanks again for your insight.

I've tried it today .
Left side no problem.
Right side the bolt wouldn't loosen.
My 8mm Allen ....thing...tool slipped and is almost round now.
I have no big .....Sh*t... I hate it when I do not know how it's called.
I need this thing... it's called a... ???



So when I find one... I'll flip my foodpegs too

It's called a "vise", specifically, a "bench vise". Don't worry about your English Lampie, it's better than alot of us, who call English our native tongue.

When you are loosening the bolts it is best to lengthen the handle of the allen key (the tool you use to undo the bolts), which gives you much more leverage. Once you "break" the seal they turn much easier. I used a ring-end spanner because it was all I had. What would be ideal would be a length of metal pipe that has a slightly larger diameter than the allen key. All you really want is a long allen key. Of course, if you have one of those allen key attachments for a socket wrench you'll have no problems.

Sleddog, what u need to do is first remove the two bolts that hold the rear brake's hydraulic thingy which will allow you to move the brake pedal up and down without any resistance. You dont have to worry about it, the brake system is all self contained, just be sure not to accidentally yank on the hydraulic hose, but they are tough and can handle a fair amount of rough handling. You wont need to actually disconnect any of the braking system. When doing the gear-side I removed the entire mechanism, but with the brake side it is easier to leave everything attached (the hose and the cable) and do the job in-place.

Once you have removed the hydraulic thing you just proceed the same way you did with the other side. One thing to note is that there is a washer between the brake pedal and the metal plate it attaches to. The washer can make it awkward when it comes time to re-insert the footpeg. Also, dont re-attach the brake hydraulic thingy until you have finished everything else, because it will prevent you from accessing the bottom bolt (I learned that the hard way).

It sounds complicated, but it really isnt. Once you start it will all make sense.

Thanks HP ,got the idea now and glad the the brake line and that ,don't need to be touched.
I'll give it a few weeks and see how your going and with the lever lenght and solutions.

HP thanks for the write up, I performed this mod flawlessly on my bike, and I love the results. Have you found that you are going to have to shorten this gear shift level? When I ride with my riding boots on, I simply don't have enough room. Have you heard of or found any replacement gear shift levers that are shorter to bring it back to the correct distance?

take off the gear lever.
cut off the old toe peg (the bit your toe goes under/over to change gears)
drill a hole further away from the foot peg
use a stepped bolt and nut as the new peg (you could be even more tricky dicky and tap the hole to accept the bolt.
cut the excess off the lever
ride on