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Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:01 am Posts: 25 Location: Collaroy, NSW, Australia
Gidday guys,
I have to admit, I thought the front brakes on the GSX650F would be a little stronger, although I'm thinking perhaps it's just my bike.
The pads themselves don't seem to be worn to the point of replacement. It seems that I have to pull the lever quite a way before anything of meaning really happens, yet I can't see a way to adjust the front brakes at all.
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:12 pm Posts: 669 Location: Alphen a/d Rijn Netherlands
Hi,
Same here.
Last monday I was pulling the brakelever almost against the throttle....
I bought new brake oil (DOT4), thinking that would solve the problem...
No it didn't.
In my right caliper one brakepad was jamming.
So the brake piston had to move quite a distance before the brakepad was angainst the disk.
There is your problem with the brakelever.....
Result of the jamming brakepad was, that the counterside is almost gone.
I ordered 4 new brakepads.
And a special copperlube to put it all together again...
Suzuki does not use any...
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:21 pm Posts: 243 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
I just ordered some Galfer brake lines for the front/rear too see if i could help out the brake situation a little. Our bikes have alot of weight to bring to a stop.
Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 12:41 am Posts: 272 Location: New Jersey
Judd wrote:
I just ordered some Galfer brake lines for the front/rear too see if i could help out the brake situation a little. Our bikes have alot of weight to bring to a stop.
Let me know how that goes. I have some roters, and pads that I will be putting on when these ones need to be replaced, and I have been thinking about doing the lines as well. Steel lines should help out with braking.
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:01 am Posts: 25 Location: Collaroy, NSW, Australia
Lampie, that does sound like what my bike is doing. I've had a cursory glance at the front brakes today but couldn't see if one of the pads is stuck, I'll get the torch out and check shortly.
Good to see that you got it fixed. Was rebuilding the brakes a big chore? Being not overly familiar with it, I'm thinking it might be best to take it to the dealer to get done.
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:12 pm Posts: 669 Location: Alphen a/d Rijn Netherlands
The job itself was not difficult.
Writing this topic takes more time, because my english isn't perfect and I don't know all the names for the tools....
Just take it step by step.
take away the 2 small bolts (nr 7 in hyperlink below) that hold the plate (6*) at the top.
use this....
There is one pin (4*), going from the outside in,
Remove that too and you can take out the brakepads one by one.
Perhaps you have to give them a little room to move.
You can use a screwdriver or this tool.
Put everything back using special coppergrease.
Note : when you push the brakecylinders (2*) back in the caliper, the brake oil is pushed back in the reservoir.
Be sure it can't leak (very bad for your paint), or take some out before doing this
Hi Guys, I also found that I wanted a bit more from the brakes. Mine were working normally and not that bad really but I just felt I wanted to up-grade them a bit. I had the agent order and fit braided hoses and EBC pads (front and back) and I'm happy with the results.
Here in my neck of the woods they are pretty sticky about the gaurantee and I would not have any work other than cosmetic things done that is not done by the agent the risk is just too great that something goes wrong and then the trouble starts.
I think that under normal everyday commuting and traffic conditions the difference this change has made is not that noticable because the originals were not too bad at that, but when the real troble comes and I need to stop quickly that's when the brakes feel so much better and give me more confidence and peace-of-mind. I just have to watch that "shock" reaction and be extra careful especially stamping down on the back brake pedal, don't want to lock up that back and loosing it. Regards from Durban RSA.
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:51 am Posts: 1028 Location: Canberra, Australia
Bryan wrote:
I just have to watch that "shock" reaction and be extra careful especially stamping down on the back brake pedal, don't want to lock up that back and loosing it. Regards from Durban RSA.
Bryan, dont panic too much about locking up the rear wheel, I have done it several times on the 650F and it doesnt cause too much trouble and you should remain upright. The front wheel, however....
I don't suppose you (or anyone else) has the stock front brake hose handy? I would like to know how long the stock brake hose is so that when I order braided steel lines I can get one that is 1 or 2 inches longer so I can fit higher handlebars.
_________________ A bad tradesman blames his tools, but so does a good tradesman who owns shitty tools. Life is so confusing
Hi HP. No sorry not at the moment, I bought my bike from the agent in Pitermaritzburg which is the next big city inland from Durban and about 80kms from where I live beacuase I have had such poor service from the Durban Suzi agent and refuse to deal with them at all. Anyway it was late afternoon when I went to fetch the bike and being winter, darkness comes early. I never ride at night if I can help it. A combination of eyes with 57 years wear and tare (and abuse) and remembering the posts about the bad headlight on the bike (which I haven't changed or tested at night) I was in a rush to get home before dark and never even thought about the pipes and pads.
Next day the dude phones and asks what he must do with the pipes and pads. So he has kept them for me and I'll fetch them when I get a chance. I suggest you hook a piece of string to the master cylinder and make a mark where the coupler starts then run the string along the pipe to the coupler on the caliper and make a mark there. Then just measure the length of the string between the marks and add on the extra you need.
The braided hoses they fitted are different to the orignals. The outside diameter is a lot narrower but I would assume the inside will be the same. I guess the strength of the braiding compensates for the rubber thickness. Then the original had one pipe from the master cylinder to the right caliper and then branched off and the branch pipe ran over the mud-guard to the left caliper. The braided hoses have two independant pipes connected to the master cylinder and run from there each to their own caliper. I don't know if this will have an effect on the distribution of the pressure in the system when compared to the original pipes. Regards from Durban RSA.
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