Just fitted an auxiliary power socket through a relay and thought I’d post this as something that works.
I have edited this since the last post 'cos I saw that I'd used my schematic as a base and gave the wrong colours
after I decided to use different coloured wiring. I'd guess nobody here would be confused by that
I had heated grips fitted earlier but they were straight to the battery so I spliced them in too while I was at it.
Things you need are:-
Relay and waterproof power socket..
In-line fuse rated at 5A [can be up-rated later if it is not sufficient]
Spade connectors [female]
Splicing blocks
Wire [this must be the flexible multi-strand type like the cables used in household electric heaters]
A crimping tool for locking the spade connectors to the cable ends and small pliers or cable stripper.
All of this can be got from Maplins or similar stores.
I think the lot [except tools] cost less than £17.00.
Decide where you want to fit the socket. Make sure there is plenty of clearance below to take the hidden
section plus wiring without rubbing or catching anything out of sight.
Mark off where you want socket to be and then scribe the 28mm diameter circle that will be cut out.
I drilled a series of 4mm holes in the plastic fairing, removed the section and then carefully burred away
the rest to the finished size using a sharp knife. An alternative is t buy or borrow a 28mm hole cutter of
the type used by plumbers, not a 28mm wood cutting bit or large drill bit unless you want to rip the fairing
or rattle the drill along it when it catches as it burst through. Be patient – even my method took only three
minutes to finished size.
I suggest ‘dry fitting’ all the wiring at this stage and when happy with everything then connect to power.
Don’t fit the socket in place yet ‘cos you’ll need to get access to the connectors underneath and it’s easier out than in.
The relay is that little gizmo sitting at the top end of the picture showing three red and one blue spade connectors attached.
The wires going in are two brown, one black and one blue. It fitted nicely where you see it, using double-sided stickers
but don’t fix it yet.
The relay is the Bosch type, which is an industry standard. This one was marked Rayex. It has four male spade connectors
with numbers cast alongside in the plastic base. They are 30, 87, 85 and 86.
The inline fuse with the black wire coming off the positive terminal of the battery is eventually connected to number 30 on the relay.
Feed a positive and a negative wire from each of the terminals at the base of the auxiliary socket. Positive is the one
in the centre of the socket base and the negative is on the outer side. I lifted the tank at this point to feed them through to the
area under the seat. The two wires are wrapped in black tape for about eight inches and led from the socket to the loom and from
there they are taken under the tank and towards the rear.
The positive from the socket is connected to number 87 on the relay. In my set-up I spliced in the positive lead to my heated grips.
You will see a black and a brown wire coming from the front of the bike and spliced into a blue connector block sitting on top of the
fuse cover. That brown runs straight to terminal number 87 on the relay.
To the top of the picture you will see a white cable sleeve with a brown wire coming through it and going to number 86 on the relay.
This wire provides power that throws the switch inside the relay and must come from a cable that only carries power when the
ignition is switched on. It draws the tiniest amount of power. I used a blue splicing block to connect it to the rear light cable.
In this bike the cable is grey and sits behind the tool kit as it enters the back of the rear light socket . I chose this for easier access
and easier to fix if anything goes wrong rather than using some unidentified cable powering the ECU, fuel pump or other vital piece of
circuitry. In the picture, it is made obvious but the cable is tucked out of the way for normal use.
The next wire for the relay is the ground. It goes to number 85 on the relay. Depending on who you ask - numbers 85 and 86 are
interchangeable 'cos they just pass current through the solenoid inside the relay to wake up the magnet and close the swith to allow
current to flow to your accessories. .
I used blue to match the cable from the ground connector at the socket. A blue cable runs
from the front of the bike straight to the negative terminal of the battery. The ground cable from the relay is spliced into that using a
blue connector block. I didn’t have a big enough round ‘spade’ so just twisted the blue wire into a loop as a temporary measure.
Just below and on the battery terminal there is another black wire just seen coming from the front of the bike. This is from the heated grips.
Tidy up the cables with ties and tape, fix the socket in place and fix all the connections. Turn on and check it’s working. Mine worked
first time – not a boast but just to show that an amateur can do it.
I know there will be folk who would never use crimped connectors or splicing blocks but I’ve used them over the years on cars and never
had any failures. If they ever do fail they are easily replaced.
)
