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 Post subject: Oil Change
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:01 pm
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Location: Asheville, N.C.
Getting ready to change oil at 600 miles. Thinking about using Mobil 1 10w40 synthetic, any suggestions on another type of synthetic? What type of oil has rider's been using?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:18 pm 
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Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
I asked for synthetic oil for mine but they (Suzuki dealer) told me that they could only put semi-synthetic because of something that I know nothing about. :oops:
Have you been told the same thing :?:

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 Post subject: oil change
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:26 pm 
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Location: Asheville, N.C.
Just came from my dealer, they stated it would be fine to use synthetic, but make sure it was motorcycle synthetic instead of the regulare Mobil 1. There is a big difference in price also. Mobil 1 motorcycle 10w40 at advanced auto $8.98 quart. Regular Mobil 1, $5.97.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 6:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 4:01 pm
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Location: Savannah Ga
Oil is one of the biggest debates in the history of Man
Do Not use energy conserving oil in your motorcycle if you are using regular conventional oil.
Here is a good place to get some good education on what you can and cannot use but its all up to the user. Good Luck
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

Just so you know I have been using Shell Rotella Petroleum until breakin is over and switching to the synthetic Shell Rotella afterwards for many miles and many different bikes and have never had a problem with any of them but I am religious when it comes to changing my oil and filter every 3000 miles on every vehicle I own even if its synthetic oil.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 2:26 am 
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Location: Albertville, Al.
I personally wouldn't use synthetic in the engine till its got at least 2000 miles. My dealership recommended 3000 miles and then recommended synthetic blend instead of full synthetic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 04, 2008 2:07 pm 
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Location: Boston, MA
+1 Don't use energy conserving. most other oils would be fine. There is a large number of people who use Shell Rotella T (regular or synthetic). It is supposed to be a heavy duty oil that could be used on diesel trucks too. I bought the synthetic version since my break in was a month of 8 mile commutes in the city and will put the synthetic oil in my FZ6

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 1:08 am 
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Location: Mesa, Arizona USA
I have used all types of motorcycle oil from Golden spectro in my 1986 Ninja 600R, Honda HP in my Honda 600 VLX, Kawasaki Synthetic in my Concours. I have also used Mobil 1 motorcycle in the Honda and Kawasaki - I stick with synthetic (after break in) regardless of brand. Have not deceided what to use for the Suzuki - used Suzuki 20w50 oil for 1st oil change (it gets over 100° F here in the summer) . Most shops around here use Honda HP regardless of brand of motorcycle. I agree that non synthetic should be used for the 1st 2000 miles to let the engine break in all the way. There is no doubt that this subject is the most talked about on most motorcycle forums (disputed) with many opinions. One thing we can all agree on is use motorcycle oil and change it often if you want your engine to last.
Dwayne


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:39 am 
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Location: Mesa, Arizona USA
article on motorcycle oil versus car oil that basically says Mobil 1 car oil is the best and motorcycle specific oil is a scam
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
I will continue to use motorcycle specific synthetic oil.
Dwayne


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:50 am 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
I agree with EXKAWIOWNER. I found a post on the 1250 bandit forum that was pretty definitive about the superiority of synthetic oils. Can't find the link right now but a Motorcycle magazine did a very in depth study of different oils and concluded that synthetic was better....but it said a lot of things so I don't want to summarize the whole article in one sentence. My problem is I like to change oil often and if I bought synthetic oil I would still probably change it to early....wasting money. So I'll probably stick with regular oil and change it often.
Yes, this is probably the most discussed item on any forum and everybody has an opinion.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:56 am 
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Location: Wales, UK
Yes, so many factors and opinions!

It just seems a moot point to be concerned about as only a tiny percentage of riders keep their bike until the point where engine wear starts to become a factor (usually 40,000 - 50,000 miles for a Japanese mid range bike). If you are going to keep a new bike that long it makes sense to use the best oils but if it's just going to be a couple of years then any reasonable oil changed regularly is going to do fine (just my opinion, I may be an idiot :) ).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:21 pm 
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Does anyone know of a faster/easier way of changing the oil in this beast? i really hope there is away around fuel tank and fairing removal.


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 Post subject: It's easy
PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:53 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
You just need to take the right side panel off.


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 Post subject: Oil Change
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:25 am 
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Location: Asheville, N.C.
Changed mine at 400 miles without removing any side panel. It was easy, just use metal oil filter cap, a 3/8 inch swivel socket with extension and a 3/8 inch socket wrench. Had the filter off within 2 minutes and total oil change in about 10. Have no idea what the fuss is about having to remove panels. With the right tools, it's a breeze.


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 Post subject: Re: It's easy
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:29 am 
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Applewins wrote:
You just need to take the right side panel off.



it says in the book to look at the spark plug diagram and it shows fuel tank removal...are you sure?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 3:10 am 
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Location: Houston, Texas
Don't remove the fuel tank. Read carefully. I agree it was confusing. But after a couple reads and looking things over, I only removed the right half of the lower fairing.

~8 allen wrench bolts and then gingerly pulled the fairing directly out.

There are two slip on guides about the middle of the fairing that kind of keep it all square, and they were snug but it just slid perpendicular to the frame.

You do have to disconnect the signal light.

I agree though, you might be able to do do it without removing the fairing at all, and that's what I'm gonna try next time, because it seemed excessive.

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