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Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
I am trying to remove my rear wheel, but the axle just freewheels on the right side when I turn the axle nut. Anyone else had this happen? It WAS secure, as I adjusted the chain once and torqued the nut to spec.
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
Any ideas??
I may have to take it to the dealer if I can't resolve this. There is very little purchase on the right side of the axle for a 22mm (?) socket, and may take two sets of hands.
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:35 pm Posts: 228 Location: Macclesfield England UK
a 22mm (I think it is 22mm but cant remember !) will hold the RHS .. I had my rear wheel out last month for a new tyre .. try soaking the LHS nut in easing fluid first overnight .. and some say coppaslip it when replacing .. but some say dont as it skews the torque setting ..
That's why a torque wrench should be used to tighten the nut to the proper torque (100 Nm I seem to recall). If the nut is over tightened (happens 95% of the time if done "by feel") there isn't enough friction to keep the other nut in place and you need someone to hold it with another wrench. If you use a torque wrench you'll be suprised how little effort 100 Nm takes. If doing it by feel, that's about the point where I would start to "properly tighten" the nut.
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
some_finn wrote:
That's why a torque wrench should be used to tighten the nut to the proper torque (100 Nm I seem to recall). If the nut is over tightened (happens 95% of the time if done "by feel") there isn't enough friction to keep the other nut in place and you need someone to hold it with another wrench. If you use a torque wrench you'll be suprised how little effort 100 Nm takes. If doing it by feel, that's about the point where I would start to "properly tighten" the nut.
As I stated, I torqued it (as always) to 72 ft lb.
Joined: Wed Oct 01, 2008 7:58 pm Posts: 260 Location: Cerritos, CA
dave23 wrote:
I am trying to remove my rear wheel, but the axle just freewheels on the right side when I turn the axle nut. Anyone else had this happen? It WAS secure, as I adjusted the chain once and torqued the nut to spec.
dave23 wrote:
Any ideas?? I may have to take it to the dealer if I can't resolve this. There is very little purchase on the right side of the axle for a 22mm (?) socket, and may take two sets of hands. Any ideas??
I'm not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but you do know that the "axle nut" is on the left side of the bike right? It takes a 27mm socket. In case I am misreading what you are saying, all you have to do is take a crescent wrench to hold one side to prevent it from moving while you tighten the otherside.
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
IsaaX wrote:
dave23 wrote:
I am trying to remove my rear wheel, but the axle just freewheels on the right side when I turn the axle nut. Anyone else had this happen? It WAS secure, as I adjusted the chain once and torqued the nut to spec.
dave23 wrote:
Any ideas?? I may have to take it to the dealer if I can't resolve this. There is very little purchase on the right side of the axle for a 22mm (?) socket, and may take two sets of hands. Any ideas??
I'm not trying to be a smart ass or anything, but you do know that the "axle nut" is on the left side of the bike right? It takes a 27mm socket. In case I am misreading what you are saying, all you have to do is take a crescent wrench to hold one side to prevent it from moving while you tighten the otherside.
LOL, I wondered why that 22mm wouldn't fit. Yeah, I used a 22mm on the right, and a 27mm on the left, but the threads had seized up a bit (I think). It took an extra set of hands to get started. Why couldn't Suzuki have seen fit to use a locking axle on this bike like most their other models? Certainly not much of a cost savings...
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
From the getgo on this bike, aside from the above problem, I've had a hard time getting the rear wheel aligned. Somehow, I've never noticed this bend in the left side adjuster plate. No f#@%*^ wonder!!! I know that I did not do this myself. It must have happened at Kevin Swantz track school, who owned the bike for it's first 4 miles and who replaced the stock Stones with Pilot Powers. Hmm.
Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:50 am Posts: 745 Location: Carencro, La USA
looks like they over torqued the hell out of it. I just removed my wheels to get fitted with Pilot Road 2's and I must say, that rear brake caliper sure does get in the way of removing the back wheel. It takes some maneuvering.
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:46 pm Posts: 89 Location: Pennsylvania, USA
hughs wrote:
a 22mm (I think it is 22mm but cant remember !) will hold the RHS .. I had my rear wheel out last month for a new tyre .. try soaking the LHS nut in easing fluid first overnight .. and some say coppaslip it when replacing .. but some say dont as it skews the torque setting ..
I agree. When you use a lubricant like anti-seize on a bolt, the standard is to reduce your tightening torque by 20%.
Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:46 pm Posts: 89 Location: Pennsylvania, USA
dave23 wrote:
From the getgo on this bike, aside from the above problem, I've had a hard time getting the rear wheel aligned. Somehow, I've never noticed this bend in the left side adjuster plate. No f#@%*^ wonder!!! I know that I did not do this myself. It must have happened at Kevin Swantz track school, who owned the bike for it's first 4 miles and who replaced the stock Stones with Pilot Powers. Hmm.
This happened to me before as well. It happened when removing the nut from the rear axle. The plate was somehow seized to the nut and as I turned the nut counter-clockwise, the plate moved with it. When the plate made contact with the swing arm, it bent. I put it in a vise and straightened it with a pair of pliers. Since the markings for alignment are on the plate, it would definately affect the tire alignment when bent.
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
Dustin wrote:
dave23 wrote:
From the getgo on this bike, aside from the above problem, I've had a hard time getting the rear wheel aligned. Somehow, I've never noticed this bend in the left side adjuster plate. No f#@%*^ wonder!!! I know that I did not do this myself. It must have happened at Kevin Swantz track school, who owned the bike for it's first 4 miles and who replaced the stock Stones with Pilot Powers. Hmm.
This happened to me before as well. It happened when removing the nut from the rear axle. The plate was somehow seized to the nut and as I turned the nut counter-clockwise, the plate moved with it. When the plate made contact with the swing arm, it bent. I put it in a vise and straightened it with a pair of pliers. Since the markings for alignment are on the plate, it would definately affect the tire alignment when bent.
This alignment system is the only really weak part of the whole GSX650F in my book- I hope they use another idea on the 1250. Think I'll find a thin washer to go there.
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:21 am Posts: 241 Location: N GA USA
Dustin wrote:
hughs wrote:
a 22mm (I think it is 22mm but cant remember !) will hold the RHS .. I had my rear wheel out last month for a new tyre .. try soaking the LHS nut in easing fluid first overnight .. and some say coppaslip it when replacing .. but some say dont as it skews the torque setting ..
I agree. When you use a lubricant like anti-seize on a bolt, the standard is to reduce your tightening torque by 20%.
Reduce? I use it on the caliper bolts and front axle (but not the rear axle), but I don't think I could force myself to reduce the torque there...
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