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I have a 2010 gsx 650f that has a ticking noise in the engine.The noise started when I had 4500 kms on it.I have no problems hearing it but it is very low and the hotter the engine gets the more constant the noise.I don't think it speeds up the faster I go.This noise can be heard while I ride but not so much when the bike is in neutral.The dealer however can't find this noise which I find very hard to believe.Does anyone else have this problem or have any idea what it could be causing this
I have had 2 car mechanics tell me that they feel it could need the valves adjusted.I have had the bike from new and this just started this year.What bothers me is it shouldn't be any ticking in a new engine.You really have to listen closely to hear,is your ticking noise loud or somewhat quiet?
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 7:51 am Posts: 1028 Location: Canberra, Australia
I can hear it with my helmet on while the bike is idling at a standstill. Did you get the 1000km service done after you broke in the engine? I believe a valve clearance adjustment is supposed do be done during this service (though I might be wrong, don't have a manual with me). Perhaps they skipped it? Also, ticking valves isnt necessarily indicative of a problem. Bike engines tend to be a little more rattley than car engines.
_________________ A bad tradesman blames his tools, but so does a good tradesman who owns shitty tools. Life is so confusing
Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 3:13 am Posts: 20 Location: Conway, AR. USA
Have you had your oil changed in awhile. Usually when you here the engine ticking it means its about time for an oil change. At least that is what the mechanic at my dealership had told me.
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Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:09 am Posts: 637 Location: Bucyrus, Ohio
Yep I'm with the above, that's what I always gauge it on. When it gets noisy, change the oil. If it's STILL noisy, next oil change, maybe try 20-50 instead of 10-40. if it still persists, it's either old, or needs tightened up. Or both!
Now that you're 3000 miles out, switch it to full synthetic if you haven't already. if you go 20-50 I'll bet it's a whisper compared to the rubbish break-in oil.
Or since it's < 3000 miles, I'd bitch to the dealer about valve adjustments, and make for damned sure they were perfect.
Summarizing though, it -could- be the louder-than-your-average-bike's clutch noise that seems to roar out from our bikes when they're parked at a light, or in neutral warming up. Might think on that as well.
Here's a little test before you go thinking your valves aren't shimmed correctly.. Start the bike hot and if it barely makes a peep from the starter and juices up like a new bike should; don't even dream that the valves need adjusted. My bike has 17,600 miles worth of MERCILESS, ANTIFREEZE-PUKING BEATINGS to it's credit, and it's just now beginning to take more than 1-2 cranks cold or hot to get going. I imagine maybe this winter I might read carefully, and take a crack at adjusting the valves by myself, or with someone that knows what's up with me.
Overall, keep us posted, and see if anything we say helps yeah? Don't be a stranger!
Yep I'm with the above, that's what I always gauge it on. When it gets noisy, change the oil. If it's STILL noisy, next oil change, maybe try 20-50 instead of 10-40. if it still persists, it's either old, or needs tightened up. Or both!
Now that you're 3000 miles out, switch it to full synthetic if you haven't already. if you go 20-50 I'll bet it's a whisper compared to the rubbish break-in oil.
Or since it's < 3000 miles, I'd bitch to the dealer about valve adjustments, and make for damned sure they were perfect.
Summarizing though, it -could- be the louder-than-your-average-bike's clutch noise that seems to roar out from our bikes when they're parked at a light, or in neutral warming up. Might think on that as well.
Here's a little test before you go thinking your valves aren't shimmed correctly.. Start the bike hot and if it barely makes a peep from the starter and juices up like a new bike should; don't even dream that the valves need adjusted. My bike has 17,600 miles worth of MERCILESS, ANTIFREEZE-PUKING BEATINGS to it's credit, and it's just now beginning to take more than 1-2 cranks cold or hot to get going. I imagine maybe this winter I might read carefully, and take a crack at adjusting the valves by myself, or with someone that knows what's up with me.
Overall, keep us posted, and see if anything we say helps yeah? Don't be a stranger!
I've always kind of had I believe to be the normal valve noise in mine. But I go nuts about engine noises in anything. I have 6000 miles on mine and am still running conventional oil. Would you recommend switching now, or just stay with conventional?
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:09 am Posts: 637 Location: Bucyrus, Ohio
Quote:
Also you recommend a 20-50 synthetic?
ABSOLUTELY, YES I DO. A full synthetic, hi-end 20-50 will be at least as effective cold as conventional 10-40, and it will put up with heaps more abuse, run a quieter engine, and never smell burned when it comes out, so you know it isn't leaving a trail of sludge in your engine.
ABSOLUTELY, YES I DO. A full synthetic, hi-end 20-50 will be at least as effective cold as conventional 10-40, and it will put up with heaps more abuse, run a quieter engine, and never smell burned when it comes out, so you know it isn't leaving a trail of sludge in your engine.
I run Mobil1 Racing 4t 10w40 full synthetic.
I will have to switch the next time I change oil then. Why do you run a 10w40 if you recommend 20-50, just curious.
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:09 am Posts: 637 Location: Bucyrus, Ohio
if "ticking" is a problem for you, the next weight up will quiet the entire valvetrain as a result. it also reduces engine output by 1-2% because of the drag on the moving parts, from the heavier oil. I don't have a problem, so I run lighter oil.
when I change my oil, and my valvetrain doesn't sound any different, that's when I'll 20w-50.
$.02
Last edited by Voided76 on Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
I was just talking to the dealership and after almost a month they tell me that the engine needed 2 cylinders resynced.The head trouble shooter from Suzuki Canada has to take it out for another ride but they feel this will cure the ticking noise.If anyone else is going through what I did the best thing to do is don't give up and settle for these noises,keep bugging the dealerships.
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